The Aran islands lays just off the coast of the Burren. A popular tourists attraction, yet ferries only operate reliably during the warm months. Operation times dependent on tides, and like any boat rides to the plethora of islands that surround Ireland are reliant on good weather. Even before the Fulbright, I was here for a year and never got to them, passing through Ireland years ago the Aran Islands plans fell through as well. So I was thrilled that after 2 years of saying I was going to hop on the ferry I finally did! It was a bit chilly, and my 10am ferry did not leave until 11:30, but overall a nice dry day for my visit to Inis Oirr, the smallest of the three islands. As you will see in some of the pics, this is also part of The Burren, with the same geological makeup. I left from Doolin, (ferries operate out of Galway too), only a 20 minute drive away from my house. Upon arrival I was hopping to visit 2, maybe even 3 of the islands and make a full day out of it. To my disappointment I found that was impossible. Three ferries companies operate out of Doolin (though I am convinced they are all actually brothers, putting on a haggling show for the ‘best deal’) , yet they are all pretty much the same and I quote “there is no way to visit more than one island in a day. you must stay overnight at one and then move onto the next the following mid-day”. So I chose the smallest, closest, and ‘most beautiful-untouched landscape’, Inis Oirr. By the time I get there I only had a couple of hours, before the one return boat left (I really did wish I could have spent the late afternoon at another island and then return in the evening- but I suppose the lack of return boats after 3:30 means you ‘have’ to stay overnight and pay for a hotel room-tricky-tricky). All that nonsense aside, at a quick pace I walked 3/4 of the island and got to see everything (except the holy well-which are of abundance in County Clare, so i think I am ok) and squeeze in a toastie before I was back on the boat. My lovely walk (you can take a horse drawn carriage around if you like) took me down little paths between fields and houses (where the horses could not go). The high stone walls blocking the land and its animals from the harsh winds of the winter months. Scattered about the island are remains of churches, castles, ship wrecks, and all those other Irish traditions that reveal its history.Of everything there, I found the Plassy Shipwreck most interesting. I knew of it because of its TV debut in the satirical comedy Father Ted, a sitcom every Irish (it appears) person loves, despite it being denied broadcast on Irish tele, RTE. It was apparently too contraversal, so at that point the BBC was thrilled to put it in their line up, and it has been a huge success every since. That said, when I discovered what actually happened I was really impressed. In 1960 a merchant ship got caught in a wild storm. the signal was made and all fled the ship as it appeared it was going under. Once off the boat the crew saw the ship resurface and made a last attempt to go back and save the ship and the goods. Upon returning to the ship a wave picked up the boat and crashed it into Finish Rock just off the coast of Inis Oirr, in the early morning. A boy walking the coast noticed the ship and returned to the village to tell the others. An emergency siren was lifted and locals responded quickly. Through the use of breeches buoy (a really cool looking life vest,tube of sorts attached to a cable) all of the crew were rescued by the islanders. This was 1960, but if you see some of the photos of the event, you would never guess it was that recent. Below you can see how quickly the weather has aged the remains of the ship, and the rest of the historical sites on this tiny island of 4 square miles and 252 people.
On return to Doolin, I took the Cliffs of Moher cruise for the second time. A great view and comparison to looking down from the top!
